Why do I have to cut my hair to grow it??

Written by Beth Whitfield on Saturday, 30 October 2010. Posted in The Beth Whitfield Blog

Cut and Grow

Why do I have to cut my hair to grow it??

Most people can't make sense of hairdresser-speak when we say you have to cut your hair to grow it. Here's the dirty.

Trust me, we totally get it when you say you are growing your hair and you don't want to cut it. The best way to grow your hair out is the right way, slowly like losing weight. Basically, I have found three types of hairdressers when it comes to long hair; this has very little to do with skill, technique or scissors.

Those who Create
Those who Accommodate
and those who Compromise

Creators are artistically inspired and are typically your passionate, bubbly, hair lovers. We are the junkies that go to all of the hair shows, and become obsessed with all of the new trends, tools, and change. We get high on the adrenaline rush of spinning you around in the chair and saying "Surprise! What do you think?". Makeovers and clients that say 'Do whatever you want' make us smile in our sleep!
How does this relate to you and your long hair?

*Click "Continue Reading" to veiw the remainder of the article.

If you are just meeting this artist, you'll both need to set some boundaries. This is the hairdresser that will make your hair come to life and look it's best but their ideas for length, color patterns, maintenance, and budget can be quite different than your own.
Here's a secret. Most salons and hair stylists charge more for long hair, right? We can all recognize the increased amount of time, product, heat, elbow grease, and care that goes into transforming long tresses. Well, we actually make more money on short haircuts because their styles expire quicker. Shorter haircuts grow out and look shaggy in a matter of weeks, not months. We are professionals and your hair is a walking talking advertisement for our career. We know how your husband feels about long hair...But I'd rather take that up with him than have you slouching around town with scraggly thin broken hair and my name on it.

If the expiration date on your haircut has lapsed, I have a few suggestions to determine whether your length can be saved. First, start by running your fingers through your hair. Can you get all the way through the ends without snagging or shedding? Yes? Good job, you can make an appointment for a trim. The length at which your fingers get caught in a snarl or tangle is the 'break line'. the bottom of your hair has lost it's protective cuticle layer. This hair tangles, sheds, and has lost it's shine.
A Creator will cut 1/2" to 1" above your break line so that you leave with bouncy shiny hair that will last 2-3 months. If this is too short for your comfort zone, you may be able to ask for a compromise by getting a deep conditioning treatment and losing an inch off your length.
An Accommodating Stylist is a pleaser. She will nod her head and cut little splinters off the ends while talking about kids. She doesn't like to upset you or lose your business by cutting too much, but you'll have to come back in three times as often to keep it from breaking off shorter and looking scraggly on the ends. Expiration: 5-6 weeks. You may still gain length even if it is higher maintenance to keep it healthy... Average hair growth is 1/2" a month. Which means that you can gain a little bit of length by getting 1/2" trims regularly. The good news is that eventually all of your hair will get healthy and full and shiny again. It just takes us a few months to get all that dead stuff off so that it can strut again.

OK, so you go in for regular trims and your hair is still crunchy? Switch hairdressers. The integrity of your hair has been compromised. Either the color on your hair is too harsh, or the shears being used are meant for sheep and shouldnt be used on your delicate hair. It's time for a professional to step up and be professional. Scissors are expensive and so is sharpening, but I can tell by looking at a strangers' hair in line at Starbucks if their hair has been cut with a dull blade.
You know what gives me the hibby-jibbies? The SOUND of hair being cut. It is like nails on a chalkboard for me to listen to the sawing of too much hair between fingers or the scrape of a dull blade chewing up perfectly good hair. Expiration: 2-4 weeks. The ends of your hair will have little white balls on it.

So The moral of the story is to evaluate your ends. Run your fingers through it and look; like really study your ends for a moment. Take a mirror in the bathroom so you can look at the hair on your back. If it separates, tangles, and looks lighter on the ends, these are indicators. White balls on the ends are the same as a split end that broke off. This hair will split, tear and snag and you need an artist that takes the maintenance of their equipment seriously. Make an appointment for a consultation or a deep conditioner if you are serious about growing it. Bring a picture of your "goal hair".

Send me a photo. I will always share my personal/professional opinion along with options or compromises. I am happy to tell you if layering, professional products, tools, or deep conditioners will benefit your length.

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About the Author

Beth Whitfield

Beth Whitfield

Beth Whitfield is an entreprenuer, business owner, a Priemier National Color Edcuator with JPMS, business coach and a Southern girl (originally from North Carolina) who came out west many years ago with an open heart and a head full of dreams...

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